The Scion tC oil change is one of the most straightforward DIY jobs you can do — and one of the most important. This guide covers both generations with the exact specs you need.

Quick Reference

Generation	Years	Engine	Oil Type	Capacity	Filter
Gen 1	2004–2010	2AZ-FE (2.4L)	0W-20 synthetic	4.4 qt	Toyota 90915-YZZD2
Gen 2	2011–2016	2AR-FE (2.5L)	0W-20 synthetic	4.8 qt	Toyota 90915-YZZD4

Drain plug torque: 33 ft-lbs

Change interval: Every 5,000 miles (conventional oil) or 10,000 miles (full synthetic)

What You’ll Need

Correct oil filter (see table above)
5 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic engine oil
14mm drain plug socket or wrench
Oil filter wrench (3-jaw type recommended)
Oil drain pan (at least 5 qt capacity)
Ramps or jack + jack stands (never work under a car on a floor jack alone)
Funnel
Rags / paper towels
Rubber gloves

Step-by-Step

1. Warm the engine

Run the car for 3–5 minutes. Warm oil drains faster and carries more contaminants with it. Don’t let it get fully hot — you’ll burn yourself.

2. Lift the car safely

The tC’s oil drain plug is accessible on ramps for most drain pans. Alternatively, jack up the front using the recommended jack points (front frame rails, not the plastic front lip) and support on jack stands.

3. Remove the drain plug

Locate the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan — it faces slightly rearward. Place your drain pan, then loosen counter-clockwise with a 14mm socket. Once loose, remove by hand (careful — hot oil will flow immediately).

4. Remove the oil filter

The oil filter is on the driver’s side of the engine, accessible from above on both generations. Use an oil filter wrench if it’s tight. Have a rag ready — some oil will spill when you break the seal.

5. Let it drain

Allow 5–10 minutes for complete drainage. Inspect the drain plug threads and the copper washer — replace the washer if it’s deformed (Toyota part: 90430-12031).

6. Install new filter

Apply a thin film of fresh oil to the new filter’s gasket. Hand-tighten only — 3/4 turn past gasket contact. Do not use a wrench to tighten.

7. Reinstall drain plug

Clean the threads, install the new copper washer, and torque to 33 ft-lbs. Do not overtighten — you’ll strip the aluminum oil pan threads.

8. Add oil

Add 4.4 qt (Gen 1) or 4.8 qt (Gen 2) through the oil filler cap on top of the engine. Start with 4 quarts, then check the dipstick and top up to the FULL mark.

9. Check for leaks

Start the engine and let it idle for 60 seconds. Check underneath for any drips at the drain plug and filter. Shut off and re-check the dipstick after 2 minutes.

10. Reset the oil life monitor (Gen 2 only)

On 2011–2016 tC: Turn the ignition to ON (not START). Press the TRIP button until the oil life percentage appears. Hold the TRIP button for 3+ seconds until it resets to 100%.

Is Your tC Low on Oil Between Changes?

If you’re topping up between oil changes and there’s no leak, that’s the 2AZ-FE oil consumption issue, not a maintenance problem — the Gen 1 tC’s 2.4L engine has a piston oil-ring design that clogs with carbon over time. It’s worth understanding before you spend money chasing it: see the 2AZ-FE oil consumption guide for the cause, a proper consumption test, and your realistic options.

This doesn’t affect Gen 2 (2011–2016) cars, which use the 2AR-FE.

Common Mistakes

Wrong oil spec — Always use 0W-20. Using 5W-30 won’t destroy the engine but it’s not what Toyota designed around. (The exception: engines already burning oil — see above.)
Overtightening the filter — Hand-tight + 3/4 turn is correct. Overtightening makes the next removal a nightmare.
Forgetting the copper washer — Reusing a crushed washer will cause a slow drip. $1 washer saves a headache.
Not checking for leaks — Always run the engine and inspect before lowering the car.

More tC maintenance guides: Scion tC hub →

Scion tC Oil Change Guide — Step-by-Step for Both Generations